Peso Da Regua to Braganca via Alvao National Park

A good downpour in the night left us contemplating weather and route options over breakfast. In the end most of us decided to ride the planned route and see how the weather fairs. By the time we were underway the sky had brightened and liked more promising. Nevertheless I had my liners in my suit and over jacket in the top box ready for any change. The route today takes us back up north to Braganca. We were underway just after 9 heading south west following the Douro in the opposite direction to yesterday climbing high into the hills and terraced vinyards.

We found a great little cafe in one of the hillside communities overlooking a valley of olive groves. The rest of the group arrived a little later just as we were leaving. Quite amazing to see how high up we had climbed too, and it seemed the climb was continuing up higher and higher along the N211 towards Juncal. 

On the way up we could see huge concrete bridge structures in the distance spanning the valleys along with other roads snaking up high too.  Eventually we climbed right up into the cloud base , the roads quite dry at this stage but as the rise topped out into a forested section the rain started with visibility low now, and that fine rain hanging off my visor. However, on the way down the sunshine appeared on the other side. The road twisted right up under those huge generator windmills near Amarante. We were both surprised at how high we had climbed now visibility was better revealing the huge vista to our left.
The view kept getting better right across the valley below. This was turning out to easily rival the Alps in its grandeur, road surface and the fast flowing bends.  Some time after taking these photos Kevin appeared on his 1250 GS alone without Sean and Gerry this time, clearly having a lot of fun he followed me down the ridge where Steve was waiting, and then took off into the distance. I followed for a while and flipped to Dynamic to improve the engine response but eventually lost him as he shot off down the valley.

Some time later we took a right turn on to the M1200 following what looked like a country lane. At first, while waiting for Steve I wondered if I had the correct route.As it turned out the road led us in to the fantastic Parque Natural do Alvao (National Park).

The scenery was amazing all covered in yellow 'Broom' as it's called, with a superb gnarly 'GS' road. Kevin was waiting just off a bend so we rode together on what turned out to be a real highlight of the day passing through rocky outcrops and a hill farm passing by a farmyard nervously  with pack of loose dogs. No trouble from the dogs in the end, we continued through the park overtaking a farmer walking his cows. Later we found a small restaurant full of workmen on their lunch break. Great service with basic food this lamb dish cost 8 euros with a Fanta and really filling too. We caught up with Sean and Gerry at a Cafe spotting their bikes outside. We had a chat swapped stories had a quick coffee and left them to their meal.  Later in the day Sean and Gerry passed us as we were refuelling. Kevin took off after them and I was last leaving the petrol station so had a great time catching Steve up, and decided to see if I could gain ground on the other three. Eventually I could see the flicker of Sean's K1600 across the valley between the trees so the chase was on. Within a few miles I caught them and had a spirited ride tailing them for a while before we all stopped for Ice Creams before the final leg to the hotel.

Our stay tonight is at the Pousada Braganca, excellent location with all rooms overlooking the valley and the castle with walled village. Great food and service, the Cod was very nice and gave us chance to sample some local wine too.

Vila Nova Foz Coa via the N222

Today, since we are staying a second night at Pacheca the plan was a 200 mile loop ride around the region taking in the Douro valley and beyond. Steve and a few others decided to have the day off the bike and head in to Pinhao on the train and visit some more wineries. Others decided to ride the 200 with our tour leader as planned. I decided to ride a shorter distance with a late start and earlier finish out to Vila Nova De Foz Coa along the Douro along the N222 and visit the Cos Valley Archaeological Park and Museum.

After grabbing a few Pastel Dr Nata (Portuguese custard tarts) and nicking a napkin from the hotel breakfast, I set off along the Douro  from Pesua de Rega toward Pinhao then up and over the N222 along the valley of a thousand vineyards I remembered from last time. This time I continued along the N222 and despite a little mist and light rain I soon settled into a great ride up and over the hills between the two sides of the Douro valley. 

Some years ago when touring the area with Lindsay we took a similar route but missed out Foz Coa after diverting toward Salamanca. However, I had since read the Archeological park was worth a visit to see the cave etchings left by pre-historic man, and to see the confluence of two rivers and the wonderful  natural environment out there. The N222 had been billed as one of the best motorcycle roads yet on the way I found a narrow road leading off the main road so decided to take a ride up there to find the most wonderful stretch of minor road snaking around the pass between the valleys.

I could now see a  castle on top of the hill (Castle of Numão) in the distance and an amazing view across. I stopped the engine and removed my helmet and ear plugs just to sample the peace up here. Later I came across the Rio Coa and stoped again for a look across the bridge before heading around Foz Coa and out to the museum.  I'm so impressed with the scenery and the sheer amount of vineyards and Olive trees as far as the eye can see.  Eventually I came across the very strange looking Museum, built out of concrete blocks. At first I couldn't work out where the entrance was. Using my empty panniers to store my bike gear I entered museum to see replicas of the cave engravings and other exhibits like different types of flint used by pre-historic man as well as other artefacts left behind nearby.  Quite informative but marred slightly by the audio translation to English device failing to work properly. Never mind, good to visit and see the exhibits and seeing where the two rivers meet and surrounding scenery made up for it. Before leaving and starting back I tucked in to the de Nastas stored in my tank bag that survived the 60 mile journey well. 

Nice little ride on my own at a leisurely pace, yet having some fun too, I have to agree about the N222. It really is a cracking road  and must be ridden while on the Douro 👍.

Down to the Douro and the N206

Today the plan was to head further south west and over the border in to Portugal. The chosen route promised some great roads, and boy it didn't disappoint😀.

Steve left the hotel ahead if me, I said I would catch him up and after a short section of motorway I began the climb up the Ou 533. What a great road long sweeping bends as I climbed up a vast valley to a hill with radio mast on the top. No sign of Steve yet, so I just kept going. Switched to Dynamic mode my GS was just perfect rolling off and on the power through these fast flowing bends. Eventually I caught sight of a flicker of motorcycle across a valley in the distance between the trees and the intercom connected to Steve I was able to announce my presence though still a kilometre away across the valley along with twisties between us. A bit cold this morning I thought .. about 12 degrees.

Later we came across the Camino route and the usual shell sign with a few people walking the route to Santiago Dr Compostela.

After riding for a bit we spotted a Cafe on the left somewhere before Braganca. Ordered a quick coffee and a few others joined us, Stephen with his GSA followed by Sean, Kevin and Gerry. A bit later Steve F, with Colin, Roger, Chris and Helen. Nice sat in the sun to warm a bit. It seems this was a great idea as after we just started to ride probably the best road ever. Now I know I say that a lot, what with past trips to the Alps and other places but myself and Steve agreed the N206 has to be right up there. Wonderful sweeping bends, total switch backs without hairpins, just right to roll off the power then on again and slingshot out on the straight again to get the power down with the quickshifter again. A sunny day too and the ride just kept getting better and better and better!

Here's Kit on his Multistrada 
And Steve with his K1200
Eventually the N206 took us into the Monteshino National Park, a part forested region with the smell of pines and then dropping down to farmland winding our way past sheep farmers and even mules and carts.

No .. it's not Millau!

As we came through a built up area on the hillside we could see a huge bridge construction that reminded me of pictures I had seen of Millau. Steve spotted a restaurant overlooking the valley on the right using the intercom we agreed to stop, turn around and grab an ice cream (why cant you get these Almond Magnum like ice creams in the UK?)

Finally, as the temperature finally reached the 20s we crossed into Portugal and down past Vila Real the ride picked up twisties again as we started to get close to the Douro wine/port region as we picked our way through the vineyard laden valleys to our hotel for two nights on the Winery estate - Quinta Da Pacheca. 

There are only 15 rooms available on the estate and our tour has booked most of them. 
Later, we joined our exclusive tour of the vineyard and cellars ..

... Followed by a tasting of the Pacheca house specialities to include their own Red wine and Port.  We all agreed the 40 year Vintage special Tawny hit the right spot...

... before retiring for dinner at the end of a superb day!

Potes to O Barca

An early start today almost tripping over these lovely St Bernard dogs on the way out, we head back toward Potes and then out on probably onr of the best motorcycle roads in Europe the famous N261 down to Riano.

Zero traffic apart from classic cars that includes Austin Healeys and also a series of 4x4's. Easy to overtake them as we did several times after s photo stop etc.

Here's Steve on the section most bikers know as 'Deer', the series of S's that snake up the valley. I stopped to take s photo with my friend here.

Fantastic look back down the valley.

On the way we kept overtaking what seemed like a Dutch classic Austin Healey club. Not sure if they were feeling the cool air on the mountains but the drivers  were wrapped up well and the temperature struggled to get into double figures.

A few stop along the way for coffee. Here's Steve at this cafe we had to shout upstairs to get the owner a lady to come and serve us. We heard a toilet flush and a head pop around a door 'Si' .. like a female Manuel out of Fawlty Towers 😂

Later we stopped for lunch way after the Picos in this river valley. I fancied something light so ordered a Salad that turned out to be the biggest salad I had ever seen. Steve ordered Lamb Chops and received 11 of them !

Later in the day while riding down towards Bonar and Villablino we passed some disused coal mines, and  functioning slate quarries that seemed active. One had a conveyor that stretched between the valley right above the road. Some good roads to ride, warming up a bit too. 

We made the Hotel in O Barco all in good time. A quirky place we are all sleeping in converted stables.

Hotel Pazo Do Castro. 

Ride brief from Steve for tomorrow.

Don't eat the peanuts .. cos they ain't peanuts, they are olive stones !