Braganca to Corias via Sierra Monteshino

Today was forecast rain in the afternoon on our route, so we all agreed an early start. Myself and Steve left the hotel around 8.15 just after breakfast to start our climb into the Montes de Leon, the mountains of Leon. A cool start and no traffic, the road started out winding through small villages across river bridges and climbing up and down valleys that gradually opened out into big sweeping bends.

The roads then changed to long fast roller coasters switching between forests then farm land either side. 

I caught up with Roger and passed him while having fun riding in mountainous section. And stopped for an agreed break at this church on a crossroads. Steve needed to reset his Garmin and I to put on my cold killers jacket. The temperature had dropped down to 9 degrees with an added head-wind chill factor, so it really felt quite cold.

For a while I stood staring at the huge stork upon the top of the smaller chapel. This church seemed to be in the middle of nowhere, almost abandoned.

While stopped, some of the other riders of our tour group went past. We met up with some of them later in a cafe bar. Tour leader Steve bought us all a coffee to warm us up. 

The road opened out cutting through vast expanses and lots of straights to sit back and cruise along taking in the scenery. 



Eventually our route took us back across the border into Spain and high up into the mountains of Monteshino National Park we had ridden over on the way down a few days earlier. Later, they topped out at 1800 metres where the side  wind was quite strong and temperature down to 6 degrees. By now you could feel the rain in the air but this didn't diminish the fun I was having.

By now I had paired with tour leader Steve and after our lunch with Kit and Roger and we had a blast up and down the mountain passes together.  A lot of fun trailing him and seeing if I could smoothly follow his lines and more importantly avoid braking into bends that suggests my gear selection was spot on. At some point we switched position and good to know I can keep the pace.

We had been warned in the briefing the night before about the huge slate quarries seen above and the slate dust on the roads. We passed trucks with huge lumps of slate on the back. Amazing sight to see but you really did have to keep the speed low into the bends because of the fine dust. The rain caught us soon after for the last 50 miles or so. The valley road from Villablino to Cangas de Narcea was the worst with quite heavy rain at times and must hanging in the valley. Pleased though this was only a short part of the days ride and didn't spoil the enjoyment. 

We filled up with fuel and went straight to the underground car park at our Paradore hotel Monasterio Dr Corias.

This hotel was once a monastery and the place is amazing. My room as all are was once a monks room set around a square. I dropped my wet gear in the room and put on my swimming trunks and had half an hour all to myself in the very nice ambient pool.

We had a lot of fun getting Steve to deliver his ride brief for the second time up high in the pulpit overlooking the restaurant as it is now. I really think he looked and sounded the part !

The meal was excellent, I went for the Entrecote, superbly cooked, followed by the cold rice pudding, traditional in Asturias that was quite a bit sweeter than we are used to. A few drinks later in the bar then off to bed. Another enjoyable day with great company. 👍

Peso Da Regua to Braganca via Alvao National Park

A good downpour in the night left us contemplating weather and route options over breakfast. In the end most of us decided to ride the planned route and see how the weather fairs. By the time we were underway the sky had brightened and liked more promising. Nevertheless I had my liners in my suit and over jacket in the top box ready for any change. The route today takes us back up north to Braganca. We were underway just after 9 heading south west following the Douro in the opposite direction to yesterday climbing high into the hills and terraced vinyards.

We found a great little cafe in one of the hillside communities overlooking a valley of olive groves. The rest of the group arrived a little later just as we were leaving. Quite amazing to see how high up we had climbed too, and it seemed the climb was continuing up higher and higher along the N211 towards Juncal. 

On the way up we could see huge concrete bridge structures in the distance spanning the valleys along with other roads snaking up high too.  Eventually we climbed right up into the cloud base , the roads quite dry at this stage but as the rise topped out into a forested section the rain started with visibility low now, and that fine rain hanging off my visor. However, on the way down the sunshine appeared on the other side. The road twisted right up under those huge generator windmills near Amarante. We were both surprised at how high we had climbed now visibility was better revealing the huge vista to our left.
The view kept getting better right across the valley below. This was turning out to easily rival the Alps in its grandeur, road surface and the fast flowing bends.  Some time after taking these photos Kevin appeared on his 1250 GS alone without Sean and Gerry this time, clearly having a lot of fun he followed me down the ridge where Steve was waiting, and then took off into the distance. I followed for a while and flipped to Dynamic to improve the engine response but eventually lost him as he shot off down the valley.

Some time later we took a right turn on to the M1200 following what looked like a country lane. At first, while waiting for Steve I wondered if I had the correct route.As it turned out the road led us in to the fantastic Parque Natural do Alvao (National Park).

The scenery was amazing all covered in yellow 'Broom' as it's called, with a superb gnarly 'GS' road. Kevin was waiting just off a bend so we rode together on what turned out to be a real highlight of the day passing through rocky outcrops and a hill farm passing by a farmyard nervously  with pack of loose dogs. No trouble from the dogs in the end, we continued through the park overtaking a farmer walking his cows. Later we found a small restaurant full of workmen on their lunch break. Great service with basic food this lamb dish cost 8 euros with a Fanta and really filling too. We caught up with Sean and Gerry at a Cafe spotting their bikes outside. We had a chat swapped stories had a quick coffee and left them to their meal.  Later in the day Sean and Gerry passed us as we were refuelling. Kevin took off after them and I was last leaving the petrol station so had a great time catching Steve up, and decided to see if I could gain ground on the other three. Eventually I could see the flicker of Sean's K1600 across the valley between the trees so the chase was on. Within a few miles I caught them and had a spirited ride tailing them for a while before we all stopped for Ice Creams before the final leg to the hotel.

Our stay tonight is at the Pousada Braganca, excellent location with all rooms overlooking the valley and the castle with walled village. Great food and service, the Cod was very nice and gave us chance to sample some local wine too.

Vila Nova Foz Coa via the N222

Today, since we are staying a second night at Pacheca the plan was a 200 mile loop ride around the region taking in the Douro valley and beyond. Steve and a few others decided to have the day off the bike and head in to Pinhao on the train and visit some more wineries. Others decided to ride the 200 with our tour leader as planned. I decided to ride a shorter distance with a late start and earlier finish out to Vila Nova De Foz Coa along the Douro along the N222 and visit the Cos Valley Archaeological Park and Museum.

After grabbing a few Pastel Dr Nata (Portuguese custard tarts) and nicking a napkin from the hotel breakfast, I set off along the Douro  from Pesua de Rega toward Pinhao then up and over the N222 along the valley of a thousand vineyards I remembered from last time. This time I continued along the N222 and despite a little mist and light rain I soon settled into a great ride up and over the hills between the two sides of the Douro valley. 

Some years ago when touring the area with Lindsay we took a similar route but missed out Foz Coa after diverting toward Salamanca. However, I had since read the Archeological park was worth a visit to see the cave etchings left by pre-historic man, and to see the confluence of two rivers and the wonderful  natural environment out there. The N222 had been billed as one of the best motorcycle roads yet on the way I found a narrow road leading off the main road so decided to take a ride up there to find the most wonderful stretch of minor road snaking around the pass between the valleys.

I could now see a  castle on top of the hill (Castle of Numão) in the distance and an amazing view across. I stopped the engine and removed my helmet and ear plugs just to sample the peace up here. Later I came across the Rio Coa and stoped again for a look across the bridge before heading around Foz Coa and out to the museum.  I'm so impressed with the scenery and the sheer amount of vineyards and Olive trees as far as the eye can see.  Eventually I came across the very strange looking Museum, built out of concrete blocks. At first I couldn't work out where the entrance was. Using my empty panniers to store my bike gear I entered museum to see replicas of the cave engravings and other exhibits like different types of flint used by pre-historic man as well as other artefacts left behind nearby.  Quite informative but marred slightly by the audio translation to English device failing to work properly. Never mind, good to visit and see the exhibits and seeing where the two rivers meet and surrounding scenery made up for it. Before leaving and starting back I tucked in to the de Nastas stored in my tank bag that survived the 60 mile journey well. 

Nice little ride on my own at a leisurely pace, yet having some fun too, I have to agree about the N222. It really is a cracking road  and must be ridden while on the Douro 👍.